The regional table / Nevada
Las Vegas Shrimp Cocktail
Nevada was eating shrimp cocktail thirty years before the casinos worked out how to give it away.
The Las Vegas shrimp cocktail is told as a casino story: a loss leader sold below cost, in a tulip glass, at a price that did not move for decades. The dish itself is older than that and older than the Strip, and Nevada's own press proves it. The Ely Daily Times of Friday 13 April 1928 printed a recipe on page three, in a column of household cookery, which reads — through some rough optical character recognition — that fresh shrimps are much to be preferred to the canned variety, but the latter are most satisfying; then it says to place a tablespoonful of chili sauce, a dash of catsup, a drop of Tabasco and "fresh horseradish in a cocktail glass with salt and a dash of pepper". That is this sauce, in a Nevada newspaper, in 1928. Nine months later, on Tuesday 15 January 1929, the same paper carried the White Pine Business Men's Club dinner menu on page four, and the first line under the heading is Shrimp Cocktail, ahead of the lettuce salad, the cream of chicken soup and the T-bone steak.
The casino claim itself could not be tested from here, and it should not be repeated as though it had been. The story usually names a downtown house and the year 1959. Nevada has no open newspaper portal of its own — the state's digitisation feeds Chronicling America, which refuses automated requests — and the only Nevada instance on the Advantage community-newspaper network is White Pine County's, whose text run for this phrase stops in 1942. Searches of the Georgia and Nebraska archives, both of which index syndicated material from across the country, turn up nothing that puts the dish in a Las Vegas casino, and the federal record on govinfo carries no such thing either. So this page names no founder and no year for the fifty-cent cocktail. What it can tell you is that the dish was already on Nevada tables in the 1920s, and what the federal rules say about the shrimp you will buy for it.
Why this version works
The ice bath is not optional. Carry-over cooking will take a drained shrimp several degrees further while it sits, and that is the difference between tender and squeaky. Straight from the pot into ice water, two minutes, then dry them.
Make the sauce first and let it sit. Horseradish heat is volatile and it needs twenty minutes in the fridge to spread through the ketchup. Sauce mixed at the last second tastes of two separate things in one bowl.
Poach in seasoned water, off the boil. Bring the pot to a boil, then kill the heat before the shrimp go in. Shrimp are done at about 120°F and a rolling boil drives straight past that into rubber. Four minutes in water that is hot and still, no more, and pull them the moment they curl into a loose C.
Horseradish carries the sauce, sugar does not. Bottled cocktail sauce is mostly sweetened ketchup. Cutting the ketchup with chili sauce, loading it with fresh horseradish and sharpening it with lemon gives you heat that arrives in the nose and leaves, which is what makes a second shrimp worth eating.