Pennsylvania

• Philadelphia Cheesesteak

  Ribeye sliced thin against a hot griddle, onions cooked down beside it, cheese melted into the pile and the whole thing scooped into a long roll — fifteen minutes of cooking and a great deal of argument nobody has ever settled with a document.

  Total

  30 min, plus 45 min freezing

  Serves

  4

  Calories

  925 per sandwich

• Philadelphia Roast Pork with Broccoli Rabe and Sharp Provolone

  Pork shoulder rubbed with garlic, rosemary and fennel, roasted slow, sliced thin and wetted with its own pan juice, then packed into a long roll with bitter greens and sharp provolone — the other Philadelphia sandwich, and the one the city's own agency says is exactly as old as the famous one.

  Total

  4 hr 30 min, plus overnight

  Serves

  6

  Calories

  840 per sandwich

• Scrapple

  Pork scraps simmered to shreds, the broth thickened with equal weights of cornmeal and buckwheat, seasoned with sage and summer savory, set in a loaf overnight and fried in slices — printed in Pennsylvania in 1880 and defined by the federal meat regulations in 1970.

  Total

  4 hr 15 min, plus overnight

  Serves

  8

  Calories

  455 per serving

• Wet-Bottom Shoofly Pie

  Molasses, boiling water and soda poured into a pastry shell and buried under flour-and-brown-sugar crumbs, so the bottom stays dark and sticky while the top bakes to cake — the construction printed in a Pennsylvania German recipe book in 1915, under a different name.

  Total

  1 hr 15 min, plus 3 hr cooling

  Serves

  8

  Calories

  555 per serving

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