Arizona
4 dishes from Arizona, cooked the way the place cooks them.
4 dishes from Arizona, cooked the way the place cooks them.
Top round cured with lime, garlic and salt, dried until it snaps, then pounded to shreds and fried with onion, green chile and tomato — the Sonoran ranch way of keeping beef in a country with no winter, rebuilt for an oven because the open-air method is no longer one I can tell you to use.
A twelve-inch flour tortilla crisped empty on a bare oven rack, then covered edge to edge with grated cheese and put back until it runs — two ingredients, no pan, no fold, and a dish so local that two state newspaper archives and the whole federal publishing record have never once printed its name.
A wide flour tortilla folded round shredded braised beef, pinto beans and cheese and deep-fried until it blisters — the dish federal labeling rules call a Sonoran specialty, Tucson calls its own, and the earliest printed origin account dates to the 1950s rather than to 1922.
A bacon-wrapped frankfurter in a soft split bolillo under whole pinto beans, grilled and raw onion, tomato, mayonnaise and mustard, with a blistered yellow chile alongside — Hermosillo's dish as Tucson has sold it since the 1990s, with no printed ancestor and the quantities worked out here.