The regional table / South Dakota
Sour Cream Raisin Pie
The meringue goes onto filling that is still steaming, and everything people hate about this pie happens when it does not.
South Dakota has one document that no other state can match on this pie, and it is worth printing before the argument starts. The Beresford Republic of Thursday 13 September 1956 carried a single column on its front page under the headline "HAWARDEN WOMAN BAKES TOP PIE": "The South Dakota Farm Bureau's 1956 pie baking queen was crowned at Huron last Friday. Mrs. Lloyd Lundeen of Hawarden, representing Union county, took honors in the state sour cream raisin pie contest at the state fair." Second place went to Mrs. Joe Eliason of Gettysburg and third to a woman from Yale whose surname the scan will not give up cleanly; the queen was crowned by Lieutenant Governor Roy Houck, and the top three took merchandise awards. Ten years later the same paper reprinted the item in its "Ten Years Ago From The Republic Files" column, and that reprint is where the thing gets its proper name in capitals: "the State Sour Cream Raisin Pie Contest at the State Fair". A state fair contest with a crowned queen, a lieutenant governor and a county delegation is about as institutional as a pie ever gets. Note who won it, though. Hawarden is in Iowa, which the same page of the same issue establishes without being asked: three columns over, a soil conservation story lists its winners as "William Kennedy, Hawarden, Ia., Stanley Anderson, Akron, Ia., and Arnold Peterson, Alcester". South Dakota's state pie queen came from across the Big Sioux and represented a South Dakota county, which is the whole problem with this pie in one sentence.
Because the pie is not South Dakota's invention, and the record is blunt about it. The earliest print I could reach is the North Georgia Citizen of Dalton, Georgia, 3 June 1909 — a reader-exchange column of recipes signed with initials and a state — and it reads: "Sour Cream Raisin Pie. To 1 cup sour cream add 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 1 cup seeded raisins and 1 tablespoonful flour", then "Bake between two crusts". It is credited to "Mrs. H. J. H., Col." — Colorado, not the plains, and baked between two crusts with no meringue anywhere near it. The same paper ran it again on 1 July and 5 August that year. By 1949 it was national promotional copy: a syndicated column under the Betty Barclay byline in the Savannah Tribune of 23 June built it on Grape-Nuts in a baked shell. In 1950 two Nebraska papers printed two different versions within three months, The Frontier of O'Neill on 6 July and The Voice of Lincoln on 5 October. And the absences next door are as telling as the hits: the Clay County papers digitised at Vermillion from 1862 onward return not one instance of the phrase, against 127 for pumpkin pie and 51 for church supper, and Beresford's own run from 1897 to 2018 has raisin pie in 1918, 1919, 1925 and 1926 and never sour cream raisin pie before that 1956 contest. So this is an upper Midwest and farm-press pie that South Dakota institutionalised rather than invented, and the site would rather say that than crown it. The quantities below were worked out for this page.
Why this version works
More cornstarch than a milk custard needs. Two things are working against a clean slice here. The sour cream brings acid, which thins a starch-bound filling as it cooks, and the raisins go on giving up liquid as the pie cools. A quarter cup of cornstarch in a nine-inch pie looks excessive in the bowl and is exactly right on the plate.
The raisins are plumped in the pan, not in the pie. US Grade A seedless raisins may carry "not more than 18 percent, by weight, of moisture" under 7 CFR 52.1846, and USDA's composition record for dark seedless puts them at 15.5 grams of water and 65.2 grams of sugar per hundred. Dropped dry into a finished custard they pull their water straight out of it and you get a stiff, dull filling. Ten minutes in simmering water first and they take it from the pan instead.
The meringue goes onto hot filling, and bakes hot and short. University of Missouri Extension Circular 670 of May 1957 is flat about it: "Meringues baked on hot fillings cook more evenly and are less likely to 'weep' than those baked on a cold pie", and "Baking at 425 to 450° F for 5 minutes seems to be more of a protection against leakage than baking at lower heat a longer time, as many recipes recommend." The same page blames the other fault on the other extreme — "Beading may result from too long cooking."
Sour cream is an acid ingredient, and federal law says how acid. The standard of identity at 21 CFR 131.160 says sour cream "results from the souring, by lactic acid producing bacteria, of pasteurized cream", carries not less than 18 percent milkfat, and "has a titratable acidity of not less than 0.5 percent, calculated as lactic acid". That half a percent is why this custard is not a vanilla cream pie with cream swapped in: acid and heat together will split it if you let it boil, so it cooks at a bare bubble and the starch goes in before the heat does.