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Skillet & Sage

A culinary journey through the fifty states

The regional table / Ohio

Buckeyes

Everything in this recipe is cold work. The dough is chilled, the balls are frozen, the chocolate is barely warm, and the one thing that ruins a tray is a hurry.

The candy is a likeness of a seed that the federal government listed among the poisonous plants. V. K. Chesnut wrote Principal Poisonous Plants of the United States for the Division of Botany of the Department of Agriculture in 1898, and in the buckeye family entry he reports that the species all have a similar action and probably contain the same poison, and that the Ohio buckeye, Aesculus glabra, is regarded as intermediate between the others in its poisonous qualities. He notes the practice of stirring bruised buckeye seeds or twigs into a pond to stupefy the fish and gather them by hand as they rise, that the fish so taken are quite wholesome when thoroughly cooked, and that the California buckeye is sometimes made into soup and bread by the Round Valley Indians after the poison is removed by roasting and leaching. The fruit of all the species, he adds, furnishes an excellent grade of starch when properly treated. So the nut that Ohio is named for is handsome, glossy, mahogany brown with a pale circular scar, and entirely unavailable to anybody who wants a sweet. A state that cannot eat its own emblem eventually builds one out of something else.

There is no old recipe for this candy and this page will not invent one. The oldest Ohio cookbook that matters here is the Centennial Buckeye Cook Book, compiled by the women of Marysville and printed there in 1876 with the epigraph that bad dinners go hand in hand with total depravity, while a properly fed man is already half saved. It is a community cookbook of the kind that recorded what a place actually cooked, its title already carries the state's nickname, and it hands you a useful pair of absences. Its Buckeye Cake is a raisin cake, its Buckeye Kisses are meringues, its Buckeye Butter Scotch is toffee — four recipes with the word in the name and not a buckeye in any of them, the nut already reduced to a way of saying Ohio. And its one peanut recipe is a Peanut Candy: a pound of coffee sugar moistened with cold water, a tablespoon of sharp vinegar and one of butter, boiled till it will break in cold water, with the peanut meats broken in bits and stirred lightly through the taffy. Peanuts, yes; peanut butter, nowhere in the book. The candy people mean today is younger than the public domain, no document dates it, and the quantities below were worked out for this page. One more thing that ought to be in this article is not: the statute making the buckeye the state tree, because Ohio's own code server at codes.ohio.gov refused every connection from here, as did the Ohio History Connection's Ohio History Central. The collection database behind Ohio Memory answers; the state's front doors do not.

Why this version works

The bare circle at the top. It is the whole design. A real buckeye is dark brown with a pale round scar where it sat in the husk, and a candy dipped to the crown is just a peanut butter ball in chocolate. Leaving the circle also leaves you somewhere to hold, which is why the toothpick goes in the top and comes out of the top.

A spoonful of fat in the chocolate. Coconut oil or shortening drops the viscosity so the coating flows off in a thin layer instead of hanging in a thick one. A thin shell snaps when you bite it and lets the peanut butter lead; a thick one is a chocolate truffle with a filling, which is a different and lesser sweet.

The balls go into the freezer, not the fridge. A dipped ball has to be cold enough to set the chocolate on contact, otherwise the coating stays liquid, runs off the bottom and takes a smear of peanut butter with it into the bowl. Half an hour in the freezer gets the surface hard while the middle stays soft enough to eat straight away.

Powdered sugar is the structure, not the sweetener. Four cups of it turn a cup and a half of peanut butter from a spread into a dough stiff enough to roll and hold a sphere at room temperature. Granulated sugar cannot do this job — it will not dissolve into fat and leaves the dough both grainy and slack, and no amount of extra sugar fixes it.

Ingredient notes

Butter: unsalted and properly soft, not melted. Melted butter makes a dough that firms up hard and cracks when rolled; softened butter beats into the peanut butter as an emulsion and stays pliable. Salted butter works if you drop the added salt by half.

Chocolate: semisweet chips or a chopped bar around 50 to 60 percent. Unsweetened chocolate is unpleasant against this filling and milk chocolate makes the whole thing one sweet note. Chips already contain stabilisers that help them set with a clean face at room temperature.

Peanut butter: the ordinary commercial no-stir kind, which is what this candy was built on. The federal standard of identity at 21 CFR 164.150 is why it behaves: peanut butter may carry no more than 10 percent seasoning and stabilising ingredients in total, no artificial sweeteners and no colour, and any oil stabiliser must be a hydrogenated vegetable oil — which is precisely the stabiliser that stops the dough weeping oil on the tray. Stone-ground natural peanut butter separates and will give you a greasy dough.

Powdered sugar: sifted, and measured by spooning it into the cup rather than scooping, because a packed cup can be half again as much and will take the dough past rolling into crumbling. Add the last cup by feel.

Step by step

  1. Beat the base. Beat the peanut butter, softened butter, vanilla and salt together until completely smooth, a minute or two. Any lump of unmixed butter at this stage becomes a soft spot in a finished candy.
  2. Work in the sugar. Add the powdered sugar a cup at a time on low speed, then finish by hand. The dough is right when it holds a fingerprint cleanly and does not stick to your palm; if it still tacks, add sugar two tablespoons at a time.
  3. Roll and freeze. Roll level tablespoons into 1-inch balls, about 48 of them, on two parchment-lined trays. Press a toothpick straight down into the top of each one, leaving it standing. Freeze 30 minutes, until the surfaces are hard.
  4. Melt the chocolate gently. Melt the chocolate and coconut oil in a deep narrow bowl over barely simmering water, or in the microwave in 20-second bursts with a stir between each. Take it off while a few pieces are still visible and stir them out in the residual heat — overheated chocolate sets dull and soft.
  5. Dip and leave the circle. Working with one tray at a time and keeping the other in the freezer, lift each ball by its toothpick, lower it into the chocolate up to about three quarters, turn it once, and draw it out. Let the drip run off against the rim, then set it down on the parchment.
  6. Close the hole and set. Pull each toothpick and smooth the hole shut with a wet fingertip while the chocolate is still soft. Refrigerate the trays 30 minutes to set hard, then lift the candies off the paper.
If the chocolate thickens into a dull paste halfway through the tray, it caught a drop of water or it overheated; start a fresh bowl rather than trying to save it, because seized chocolate will not coat. If the dough cracks as you roll, it took too much sugar — knead in a tablespoon of softened butter or peanut butter and it comes back. If the coating pooled into a foot around each candy, the balls were not cold enough or the chocolate was too warm; trim the skirt with a small knife once set, which nobody will notice.

Storage and make-ahead

Buckeyes keep 2 weeks in a covered tin in the fridge with parchment between the layers, and 3 days at cool room temperature before the filling starts to soften and slump. Serve them cold or barely cool; warm, they lose the snap that makes them worth the dipping.

They freeze for 3 months and thaw better than most candy. Freeze them solid on a tray first, then bag them, and let them come back to fridge temperature in the bag so condensation forms on the plastic and not on the chocolate.

What to serve with it

Black coffee, and not much else. This is a very sweet candy with a great deal of fat in it, and anything else sweet alongside flattens it.

On a tray with other things, buckeyes want company that is sharp or plain — salted peanuts, or apple slices, or a bowl of unsweetened popcorn at a tailgate.

From the recipe box / Ohio

Buckeyes

Peanut butter and powdered sugar rolled into balls, frozen hard, and dipped in chocolate all the way but for a circle at the top — a portrait in candy of a nut nobody can eat.

Prep
40 min
Cook
10 min
Total
50 min, plus 1 hr chilling
Serves
48
Calories
143 per piece

Ingredients

Scale

Instructions

  1. Beat the peanut butter, softened butter, vanilla and salt until completely smooth.
  2. Work in the powdered sugar a cup at a time until the dough holds a fingerprint and does not stick to your hand.
  3. Roll 48 one-inch balls onto lined trays, stand a toothpick in each, and freeze 30 minutes.
  4. Melt the chocolate with the coconut oil gently, stirring the last pieces out off the heat.
  5. Dip each frozen ball by its toothpick to about three quarters, leaving a bare circle at the crown, and set it on the parchment.
  6. Pull the toothpicks, smooth the holes with a wet fingertip, and refrigerate 30 minutes to set.

Nutrition

Fat8 g (3 g saturated)
Sodium45 mg
Protein2 g
Serving1 buckeye
Calories143
Cholesterol5 mg
Carbohydrates15 g (13 g sugar, 1 g fiber)

Nutrition is an estimate calculated from the listed ingredients and is provided as a courtesy, not as dietary advice.

Questions readers ask

Can I eat an actual buckeye?

No. The USDA's Division of Botany put the genus in its 1898 bulletin on the principal poisonous plants of the United States, said all the species probably carry the same poison, and placed the Ohio buckeye in the middle of the range for potency. The one food use it records is the California buckeye, which the Round Valley Indians made into soup and bread only after roasting and leaching the poison out. The candy is a likeness and nothing more.

Why leave the top uncovered?

Because that circle is the candy. The nut it copies is dark and polished with a pale round scar where it was attached inside the husk, and dipping to the crown turns the whole thing into an anonymous chocolate ball. It also gives you a dry place to hold a candy that is otherwise entirely chocolate.

Can I use natural peanut butter?

It is the one substitution that regularly ruins a batch. Natural peanut butter separates because it has no stabiliser, so the dough weeps oil onto the tray, the balls soften while you dip and the chocolate slides. If it is all you have, stir it thoroughly, chill the jar overnight, and expect to add half a cup more powdered sugar and to work faster.

Do they have to be frozen before dipping?

Chilled is the minimum and frozen is much better. The whole trick is that the chocolate sets the instant it touches a cold surface, which is what gives a thin even shell with no pooling. Balls straight from the bowl melt into the chocolate, thicken it with peanut butter, and by the end of the tray you are dipping into fudge.